Discover Scotlands Borderlands

Discover Scotland’s Borderlands… Something most US tourists miss

Do you like many tourists think of Edinburgh when you think of Scotland?

Scotland borderlands
Welcome to Scotland

Maybe a quick stop on a multi-city tour.  But there is so much more to see, experience and explore in Scotland.  Like discovering the borderlands. Head south an hour outside Edinburgh, and discover castles, abbeys, and quaint towns.  Rich in history, beauty, adventure, and opportunities.

This is a tour you can easily do in five days with no rush.  If you like biking, hiking, and the outdoor life, be sure to add extra days in the Tweed Valley. For “high-octane”  adventure, you’ll need more time.

It’s only 21.9 miles between Peebles and Selkirk so you have lots of choices of a place to stay.  You’ll find accommodations that range from castles, hotels, guest inns, bed-and-breakfast, to bunkhouses, camping, and self-catering.

There is a lot to see in a small area. Pick a town as a home base. Or tour and stay over in multiple spots to get a sense of life in the very different communities.

As in all of Scotland, the weather can change quickly.  It’s always good to have a raincoat and good walking shoes.

Venues generally close before dark for guest safety.  Since they depend on natural light, winter hours are shorter.  In very inclement weather, there can be surprise closures.  It’s good to do a last minute check.

Edinburgh – Tweed Valley

Scottish borderlands
Tweed Valley Scottish borderlands

From Edinburgh take the A703 to its junction with the A72 and head toward Peebles.  You are driving through the stunning Tweed Valley. It’s one of the most popular places in the borderlands. Prized for its natural beauty and outdoor activities of every imaginable type.

An hour 15 minutes down the road you come to the little town of Galashiels.

Just outside of town is Abbotsford, the home of writer Sir Walter Scott.  The

Abbotsford in Scottish borderlands
Abbotsford photo courtesy scottsabbotsford.com

striking hills, valleys, and history of the area were a great inspiration to him. Tours of the house and gardens are available March to November, but the gift shop and restaurant are open year round.

Galashiels was a textile town. It has a more modern post-industrial feel to it. There is still a textile making school here. Famous for its sheep, wool was readily available and the fast-flowing Tweed River powered the mills.

Selkirk is less than 7 minutes down the road.  Here you can visit Bowhill House and Country Estate, and two glass studios.  Lindean Mill Glass and Twist Glass Studio will both amaze and tempt you to buy.

From this area of the lowlands came a grace that Robert Burns popularized as the Selkirk Grace.  A two-line prayer often recited before eating.

Melrose, about 5 miles from Galashiels, offers the historic charm of a border market town.  It’s full of history well worth exploring. Melrose is 14.6 miles, about 27 minutes west of Kelso.

Explore Melrose – Kelso

You could easily spend two days in this area of the borderlands.  There is a lot to see and do.  Be sure to take your camera as there are lots of photo opportunities.

Melrose Abbey

This is a must-see.  One of the most famous ruins in Scotland. Founded by

Melrose Abbey in borderlands
Melrose Abbey

David I, in 1136 for the order of the Cistercian.  Melrose suffered damage at the hands of the English during the middle ages. In the 1380s, rebuilding took place. After the last monk passed away in 1590 it fell into disuse.

The abbey is open year round, but October through March the hours are shortened. The Commendator’s House Museum has a diverse collection of medieval objects.

Three Hills Roman Heritage Center

The Romans arrived in the Melrose area in 79-80AD.  They built a major fort called Trimontium, ‘Place of the Three Hills’. The Three Hills Roman Heritage Center houses a museum dedicated to Roman life in Scotland.

The name Three Hills refers to the distinctive three-peaked hill, also called Elidon, just south of the town of Melrose.   One of the highest and most distinctive geographical features in the borderlands, it was a natural location for an outlook or signal station. The military base would have been along the Roman army road that ran through the valley near the Tweed River.

Dryburgh Abbey

This abbey is nearby in St. Boswells.  Established in 1150 you’ll find well-

Dryburgh Abbey borderlands
Dryburgh Abbey

preserved ruins.  They rank among the most beautiful in Scotland.  It survived three fires and is the final resting place for both David Eskrine, 11th Earl of Buchan in 1829, and three years later his friend Sir Walter Scott.  The abbey is open to visitors year around.  It’s easy to access… flat with no steps.

Kelso Abbey

Located in Kelso you’ll find the remains of the abbey founded in the twelfth

Kelso Abbey borderlands scotland
Kelso Abbey

century.   The ruins are a testimony to one of the greatest architectural achievements in historic Scotland. It was one of the largest and most affluent of the abbeys in Scotland. The area is so pretty, it has attracted artists since the 1600s.

Scott’s View

This high point was an inspiration to Sir Walter Scott. Located off the

Scotts View borderlands of Scotland
Scotts View Elidon Hills in the distance

narrow B6404 that runs between Kelso and St. Boswells it offers commanding views of the Three Hills and the Tweed Valley.  A bench and marker commemorate where Scott liked to contemplate.  On our tour, we stopped past Scott’s View on our way to find Smailholm Tower.

Smailholm Tower

This is a classical borderland tower house.  Four stories tall  (65 feet), and

Smailholm in Scottish borderlands
Smailholm Castle

built on a rocky crag called Lady Hill its address is Sandyknowe Farm. This reflects its location adjacent to a local farm on the narrow B-road.

It’s a gem of a find.  To get there park in the small carpark and hike up the hill.  The ground is rocky and uneven. Not recommended for those with physical challenges.

Amazing views reward your hike.  Inside the hall, there is a model of the Pringle residence and a collection of garments and tapestries from Sir Walter Scott’s time.  Scott’s grandparents brought him to the area when they stayed at Sandyknowe Farm.

Floors Castle

Located just outside of Kelso, the 1st Duke of Roxburghe built Floors in 1721.

Floors Castle in Scottish borderlands
Floors Castle

It is more a country estate than a defensive fortification.  Offering tours for over 40 years, this huge castle is still an inhabited family home.  There have been many modifications over the years as families suited it to their needs.

If you have the family names of Ker, Kerr, Car, or Carr in your ancestry, you’ll enjoy researching in this area.  Both lines of the family were in high power positions as lords of the middle marshes and favorites of King James VI.

Cessford Castle

You’ll find Cessford just over 11 miles south and slightly east of Floors.  It

Cessford Castle Scottish Borderlands
Cessford Castle

was the stronghold of the Ker family during the 16th and 17th century.  The area was in constant turmoil for 200 years. But the Kers exercised considerable power and extended their prosperity.

Built in about 1450 this is a tower house fortification.  It sits high on a hill with commanding views that made it very defensible.  Cessford is located just outside of the town of Cessford.  Last inhabited in 1650 it fell into ruin.  Standing on this windswept hillside, it’s a cold lonely place that triggers the imagination of life in times gone by.

Roxburgh Castle

Also near Kelso, you can find the ruins of Roxburgh Castle.  Sitting next to

Roxburgh Castle Scottish Borderlands
Roxburgh Castle rendering courtesy Pinterest

the A699 it’s easy to find.  There is a pull off where you can park and hike to the ruins.  Wear good footwear, the ground is uneven.  Little stonework remains but the site is impressive.

Built by King David I in 1125, it stood guard protecting the burg of Roxburgh.  The location overlooked the river Tweed, a valuable method of transporting goods.

In its day, it was as important as Edinburgh or Sterling are today.  The rivers Tweed and Teviot ran closer to it than they do today, protecting the castle with water-filled defenses on all sides.

Besieged numerous times for its powerful vantage point, it shifted back and forth between English and Scottish ownership for nearly 300 years. Finally,  abandoned, 1551 saw it demolished to prevent further military use.

Look northwest across the Tweed and you can see Floors Castle in the distance.

Jedburgh

Jedburgh sits 12 miles southwest of Kelso, about a twenty-minute drive.  It makes a great day-trip or a quaint place to stay.  This market town was home to the Kerr Clan. The family castle, Fernihurst, is located just outside of town.  The village name comes from its location on the river Jed. Only about 10 miles from the English border, it is the heart of the borderlands.

Jedburgh Castle

King David I built the original castle before 1174.  In the late 12th century,

Jedburgh Castle Jail Scottish borderlands
Jedburgh Castle Jail & Museum courtesy Trip Advisor

Jedburgh along with four other castles was ceded to the English.  An occasional royal residence for Scots, the English recaptured it many times. Finally, Scots demolished it in 1409.  In the 19th century, rebuilding occurred. It opened as a prison in 1823.  Today it is a museum. It gives you insights into being a resident in the jail… as well as a glimpse of the area history.  Free admission.

Jedburgh Abbey

The abbey founded in the 12th century was home to Augustinian monks.  It is

Jedburgh Abbey Scottish borderlands
Jedburgh Abbey

one of four great abbeys built at this time.  You’ll find it exceptionally preserved. Good access to the abbey, its cloister, and domestic buildings.  The blend of Romanesque and early Gothic is intriguing.  The abbey is open year round, but the hours are shorter in the winter.

Mary Queen of Scotts Center

The Kerr family rented this home to Mary when she toured the area on

Mary Queen of Scotts borderlands
Mary Queen of Scotts Center

business.  She stayed a month in the autumn of 1566 and as queen, dispensed justice.  Today, a visitor’s center, the home gives you insights of her life and times.  It is one of the largest collections of pictures and objects about the queen.

Many Kerr were left-handed. When they built this home, they included a left-handed stairway. It’s on the second floor. The stairway offered left-handed defenders a decided advantage over right-handers trying to attack them.

You can also walk in the enclosed garden and wander in the town.  Free

Jedburgh borderlands Scotland
Left-handed stairs, Mary Queen of Scotts Center

admission.  It is open to the public March 1st through the end of November.

Fernihurst Castle

Tucked on a hill two miles south of Jedburgh is Fernihurst Castle, the seat of

Fernihurst Scottish borderlands
Fernihurst Castle

Clan Kerr.  Privately owned, it allows the public access during the month of July.  This coincides with the Jedburgh Summer Festival.

During this two-week-long festival, there are lots of activities to celebrate and commemorate the taking back of Fernihurst from the English in 1549.  The festival tops off with a 200 man mounted cavalcade. They ride from Jedburgh to Fernihurst castle. There a commemorative service is performed.

Nestled among trees, Fernihurst has commanding views of the surrounding countryside and village.

Fernihurst represents one of the best-preserved castles of its period. Originally a tower fortification built in 1476. James VI mostly demolished it in 1593 as punishment for helping the English.

Sir Andrew Kerr rebuilt it in 1598. The family occupied the home for 200 years.  Starting in the 1980s the Laird hired local craftsmen, using local materials. to undertake restoration.

Occasionally, a private tour is available. The amazing curator Bob Larson is extremely knowledgeable.  He also responds to family and genealogy inquiries from Kerrs/Carrs worldwide.

Waterloo Monument

From Jedburgh, you are only 6.2 miles, about 15 minutes to the Waterloo

Waterloo Monument Scottish borders
Waterloo Monument courtesy Explore the Borders

Monument. It’s accessible via a car park at the Harestanes Visitor Centre.  It’s accessible from the B6400 or A68.  The marked path sits on private land. The hike is steep in places. It’s best on a good weather day.

The views are fabulous.  The monument soars 150 feet tall.  Constructed in 1817-1824 it commemorates the battle of Waterloo.

They keep the tower locked. For a small fee, you rent a key that allows you access inside. You’ll find a circular stair that takes you clear to the top.  I didn’t do this hike but there heard of key issues. Key access is not available daily. Some reviewers reported faulty keys.

If you like a good hike and want spectacular views, this is a must do.

Return to Edinburgh

From Jedburgh, you are less than two hours to Edinburgh.  From the Waterloo Monument about 75 minutes. Both routes travel the A68.   Easy access to return to the city.

Create your own tour?

If you need help creating your own custom tour, please contact me: [email protected].  My husband is English and knows all the insider places.  We both love exploring the British Isles and help you create your memorable experience.

Useful Tidbits you may not know about Scotland

Tidbits About Scotland…..

Want to visit the land of your heritage? Just love Scotland? Here are some

Eileen Donan Castle is one of the most photographed in Scotland
Eileen Donan Castle

tidbits you might enjoy.

Scottish History

The Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae is the oldest in Britain. It’s the oldest building, located on Orkney Island dates to 3100 BC. Orkney is one of about 790 islands in Scotland located to the far north of the country.

Roman invasions marked the beginning of modern history. Unable to defeat the locals, they finally withdrew and settled for building the Antoine wall to keep them in out of England.

The Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata was founded in the 6th Century. In the next century, an Irish missionary founded a monastery and introduced Celtic Christianity to the pagan Scoti and Picts.

Places to visit in Scotland

Like tall places? Visit Ben Nevis, the highest point at 4406 feet. The ancient Scottish mountains have been glacially sculpted. You’ll feel like you are in an alien landscape, majestic and stark.

Narrow road leading to ferry landing to take you from Skye to the mainland
Narrow Scottish road on the Isle of Skye looking to the mainland

Prefer fishing? You’ll find more than 600 square miles of freshwater lakes. The deepest is Loch Morar at 1077 feet. Legends still exist of giant sea monsters lurking in the deep lochs.

Don’t miss the distilleries making Scottish whisky. Whisky is synonymous with Scotland. It’s who they are. Currently, there are 98 active distilleries. They employ over 10,000 people and account for 85% of the Scottish food and beverage exports.
Did you know? Scotland didn’t invent whisky. It was invented in China. The Irish monks started distilling it in the 1400s and it reached Scotland about 100 years later.

Scotland is home to the oldest tree in Europe. You can discover the twisted yew in Fortingall where it has grown for 3000 years.

Over 2000 castles were built in Scotland. Many now are only historical documents or ruins. Others remain in private ownership. Historic Scotland cares for over 300 properties including 65 castles. These are open to the public.  Be sure to take a raincoat or umbrella as it rains frequently in Scotland.

Be sure to take a raincoat or umbrella when touring here as it rains frequently.

Where to live

Most of Scotland’s 5.2 million people live in the lower 30% of the country. They account for 8.5% of the total UK population.

What’s in the upper 70%? Glacially sculpted mountains and valleys, hardy farmers, lots of heather and sheep.

Did you know?

Keep meeting Americans with Scottish ancestry? Not surprising. There are as many Scottish people in America as in Scotland with about 5 million claiming Scottish ancestry.

You’ll hear not one but three official languages spoken. English, Scottish and Scottish Gaelic.

Kilts, tartans, and bagpipes are an integral part of Scottish culture. But history notes evidence of them in Central Europe dating to the Bronze Age. Bagpipes may have come from ancient central Asia.

 

Is Britain on Your Bucket List?

A view of Bolton Castle, Yorkshire Dales Park, Britain
Yorkshire Dales Park in northern Britain

Your Britain Adventure

Is traveling internationally on your bucket list?  Don’t let the dream slip away. International travel is life-changing. It’s an adventure. Faraway places, new cultures, different accents, not to mention the food. You’ll experience broadened horizons, great memories. Britain is a great place to start.

The first wagon train crossed the US heading west in 1841.  That’s 175 years ago. No original wood structures are still standing.  In Britain 175 years of age is nothing for a building. You can stay in a castle built in the 11th century, or an inn built in the 1700s. Look and you will find evidence of people living there for over 2000 years.

Stonehenge is the most famous of the standing stones. Other standing stones are much older. Some date back to the Neolithic age and you can walk freely among them with no fences or restriction. Hidden gems you can seek out. They will inspire you.

Travel now!

Right now, it’s a great time to visit Britain.  The rate of exchange from dollars to pounds is the best ever. British pounds have always been worth more against any other currency. Right now instead of being near $2.00 to 1£, it has been hovering around the $1.33 range.  That means your dollar goes a lot farther.

Two other benefits?  They speak English.  And more Americans have British ancestry than any other group. You can trace your roots; walk the soil of your ancestors. Or, just enjoy the people and places.

How to get around Britain…

A little planning will help your trip be a success and memory maker.  Do you want to stay in the big cities?  It’s easy to take the train to get between them. In 4-1/2 hours, you can get from London to Edinburgh. Or maybe you want to focus just on one city.  Public transit can get you around like a local.

Maybe you want to get out into the countryside. Meet the locals. Experience the charm of the villages. Just like in the US, get out of the big cities and you will find the people more friendly and relaxed. Visit castles, standing stones, manor houses, quaint inns.  Stop into a pub for a cup of coffee, tea or brew. They are happy to share their stories, their history.

You could take tour buses, many people do. You and a group of 40 are loaded up and shuttled off to see the sites. Going with a crowd not your idea of fun, you could rent a car.  Renting a car in the UK is a bit of an adventure.  You will be driving on the opposite side of the road.  It’s easiest done with a driver and a navigator. The driver can focus on the road and the navigator can guide the turns.

Country maps are handy but often they don’t give you road detail.  A good sat-nav is helpful.  Rent a car with a sat-nav, or take a device like a Garmin with you.  Smartphones have navigation ability but it is going to be using your data feed.  Prices for data in foreign countries can be steep.  Investigate before you go.  You may only want to use your device where there is free Wi-Fi.

What to do?

Do you want to get the flavor of Britain?  Maybe this is a family heritage trip. Maybe you want to try hiking. Traveling Hadrian’s wall, in the beautiful Lake District or the Yorkshire Dales are popular with the locals and visitors alike. Do it for a day, or take one of the routes that include overnights along the way.

Horse lovers can do day rides between bed and breakfasts and see the country in a unique way.  Identify your goals and you are a giant step closer to getting the experience you want.

Plot out where you want to visit and pick destinations.  For the best prices, check Trip Advisor or other online booking agency. Other traveler’s reviews can help you select the place that meets your needs and budget.  Once you have your list, contact the property directly.  Ask about their specials.  Hotels and inns have to pay those booking companies a commission, up to 15% of the room cost. Typically, if you call direct, you will save.

Peak season in the UK is August.  Loads of locals take their vacations then.  If you can avoid it, you will save money and find your destinations less crowded.  You won’t typically find that much difference in weather from spring to summer.  Many people claim that like Oregon, autumn can be the best.  If you are interested in winter sports like skiing, winter is the season for you.

How much to see?

England, Scotland, and Wales are bigger than they seem.  Yes, you can take the total square miles and put it in the state of Oregon.  But the island is longer and narrower. The route from the traditional extreme end points of Land’s End to John o’ Groats is 814-838 miles depending on route. Driving time without traffic just under 16 hours.  There will be traffic, count on it. Also, lots of interesting places in between.  Don’t miss them.

Selecting one or several areas to focus on.  Stay several days. Explore from your base camp. It’s more relaxing than living out of a suitcase. Castles, manor houses, Inns and Bed and Breakfasts all across the UK offer accommodations. Chain hotels with names you will recognize are also available. They may not look like the ones back home.  Camping, yurts, glamping and recreational vehicles called Caravans are popular with the locals. Pick your experience.

If driving, allow for the roads. Going a distance of 135 miles in a day sounds easy. It is on a freeway. But if is on two-lane roads there are lots of curves more as they cross the undulating lands. A two-hour freeway trip can easily take four on secondary roads.  Take time for photo opportunities.  They will be around every bend.

 

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